Art Sword Polish Restoration
First off, it is important to understand that NO polish is
better than a BAD polish. I know that professional
Japanese sword polishing
little pricey, but it is worth the cost. An unskilled
and possibly even ruin
your blades and certainly decrease
If you can't afford proper
restoration, you are
better off just keeping your blades clean and oiled and
is. A rusty sword with its original geometry, lines and metal
intact is more valuable than a sword that has been crudely ground out
of shape by an amateur polish.
I often spend up to 3
weeks or even longer working on a single full
polish for a large blade.
To put it in perspective, imagine what it would cost to get a mechanic
to work on your car or your dentist to work on your teeth for 3
weeks straight! All
work is done by me personally.
a limited number of blades per year, so get while the getting is
good. I offer the
prices in the country for this level of work. Many people
current work to be better than a lot of the work coming out
of Japan these days.
See this RECENT
for detailed examples. Click HERE to see
head to head comparison
with other top American and Japanese polishers.
This is the full complete traditional Japanese art polishing all done
by hand exclusively by David Hofhine. NO passing off second
rate student or subcontractor work! This includes
that can be done as far as polishing goes to restore a blade such as
chips, rust, re-shaping, fixing broken points, bringing out ji-hada,
finishing. This obviously would not include things than can not
be fixed by polishing stones. The current cost for a full polish
Blades with horimono or grooves add an additional 25%.
nagamaki, and some of the more complex shapes may need to add up to
50%. Sorry, but these more complex shapes require a LOT of
and additional stones which must be specially shaped for the
blade. Blades with exceptionally deep pitting or large nasty chips may also require an extra percentage.
Full Polishes need to be scheduled well in advance.
LENGTH is measured
as the overall length of the blade from the mune-machi (notch where the
spine meets the tang) to the point, basically the overall length of the
functional portion of the blade.
POLISH (Shiagetogi): Some times referred to as a
"touch-up", this polish is for blades that are in reasonably good
shape, but need fixing up do to a low grade Showa era polish or just an
old worn out looking Japanese polish. I also have
many requests to redo the finish work of other professional polishers
finish work is not at as high a level as mine. Click here for
examples. Service includes: some nagura
stone work, uchigumori stone work, finger stoning of ji (hazuya and
jizuya), nugui to clear the ji and bring out ji-hada, hadori or
sashikomi work to whiten
the hamon and bring out details of yaki, narume-dai to define the
yokote and give the kissaki a fresh matte finish, and final burnishing
of shinogi-ji and mune. Basically all of the final
stones and finishing steps of
applied to all the surfaces of the blade. No other work is
with a basic finish polish.
This is very good at bringing out hada and revealing all the
the hamon. It will remove some fine scratches and
discoloration and it
can make a blade that was in good condition to begin with look like it
has a brand new full polish in some cases. The better the
condition before finish polish, the better the end result will be.
This will not remove deeper scratches, pits, or chips.
include straightening as this often causes centipede wrinkles that
require heavier polishing to remove. It does not include
reshaping. It will make a blade slightly sharper if it all
ready has a
good edge, but otherwise does not include sharpening. This
have little to no effect on a rusted or amateurishly polished blade as
these techniques are very fine and subtle and generally will not remove
deep flaws or defects in a blade's shape. These techniques
strong enough to remove most scratches from sand paper. A
will do little to improve "finger print rust" or patches of "oxidized"
steel. This is where the steel is not really "rusty", but no
a smooth even surface. The blade should have a smooth surface
least the remnants of an original Japanese polish. Any rust
scratches that are clearly visible before finish polishing will
probably still be there after finish polish. If you think
your blade is
in too rough a condition for just a finish polish it probably is.
Polish Current Prices:
can also add extra options to the basic finish polish
such as the following:
Under 10" = $295
10" - 14" = $395
14" - 18" = $495
18" - 22" = $595
22" - 25" = $695
25" - 28" = $795
28" - 32" = $895
is based on the amount of extra work needed.
finish polish carries no guarantee as the final result depends
completely on the original condition of the blade. It is
impossible to remove many types of flaws using only fine finishing
techniques. If you want the most flawless finish possible,
should go for a full polish.
or MARTIAL ARTS
POLISH (Shitajitogi): This is exactly the same
as the foundation work done on a full polish without the super fine
final scratch removal and the art finishing.
It includes all of the work of a
polish up to the first uchigumori stone. It also includes some basic
finishing to bring out the
hamon, boshi, and possibly some hada. The
shinogi-ji will be shiny, but unburnished. The blade will be very
will remove all the
defects that a full polish will. This is good for martial
and for blades that may not warrant a full polish, but need to have
active rust stopped, straightening, chips removed or a broken tip
leave the blade with some very fine lengthwise scratches
on the surface. I
always use a
minimalist approach to all foundation polishing, always considering the
long term well being of the sword as primary. Foundation
to be scheduled well in advance. The current cost
for just a foundation/martial arts
polish is $59/inch +
shipping. I've raised the prices for foundation polish,
been getting swamped with requests for doing just foundation work on a
lot of lower end blades. Doing
back to back to back foundations has proven to be pretty hard
on my wrist tendons and really reduces the amount of time I can spend
working on better quality swords.
the blades featured on this web site
are not currently in
my possession, do not belong to me and are not for sale as far as I
absolute minimum number of blades (usually just one or two unmounted
and unpolished) are kept on
hand at all times to minimize liability. -David Hofhine
free to contact me at the following
Copyright David Hofhine, Kensei LLC
and After Photos!
is the Wait so Long?
on the List
It Yourself Polishing?
or Sashikomi Finish?
Here to See Recent Work!
Here to See Before and After Photos!